Foundation front for garments



Dec. 25, 1951 YAGHUBMN 2,579,894

FOUNDATION FRONT FOR GARMENT Filed Nov. 14, 1947 INVENTOR. HAGOP J. YAGHUBIAN ATTOKNEIZYM Patented Dec. 25, 1951 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE FOUNDATION FRONT FOR GARMENTS Hagop J. Yaghubian, Bronx, N. Y.

Application November 14, 1947, Serial No. 785,906

2 Claims. 1

This invention relates to improvements in foundation canvas fronts for suits. u

Broadly, it is an object of my invention to provide a canvas front with a shoulder portion extended to overlie the upper portion of the shoulder and partly to the rear of the shoulder blade, the shoulder portion having overlapping leaves so stitched as to provide a curved normal shoulder giving the appearance of uniform thickness but tapering .both front and back and tapering from the shoulder end toward the neck portion.

More particularly, it is an object of my invention to provide a curved shoulder portion set on the bias so stitched over a curved surface so that it will retain the curvature of the form of the human shoulder.

Heretofore, canvas fronts have been made containing an outer canvas piece with a flannel underlining and when the shoulder had to be built up cotton cushions were attached beneath the shoulder, that is below the felt piece or under the canvas, in order to raise the shoulders. Within a short time, the cotton filling would shift to a certain extent so that the shoulder would sag giving an unsightly and badly fitted appearance to the shoulders and consequently to the rest of the garment. In my improvement the curvature and the filling of the leaves are permanently attached in such a mannerthat it will always retain its curved surface to fit the shoulders and in no case can the filling or leaves shift to any extent, nor' can the shoulder sag, thus maintaining a permanently fitted garment without the possibility of the shoulder sagging atany time. In this manner the garment will always hang properly both on the shoulder and on the hanger, maintaining its shape at all times and prolonging the life and shape of the garment. It is well known that when a garment begins to lose its shape that constant pressing is necessary which materially shortens the life of the garment.

A further object of my invention is to make a fitted garment for persons requiring special fittings and where one shoulder may be slightly higher or lower than the opposite shoulder. Above the lower shoulder and between the canvas portions a few extra leaves may be added to equalize the shoulder heights in the completed garment.

A further object of my invention is to provide a bias construction for the shoulder portion so that in shaping the shoulder to conform to the natural shoulder curvature the material will automatically stretch and maintain the curvature because of the bias positioning of the pieces of fabric.

For a fuller understanding of the nature of my invention reference is had to the following detailed description in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a plan view of the foundation front showing the left side of the foundation for a garment;

Figure 2 is a side perspective view of the left side foundation front shown in Figure 1.

Referring to the drawings, numeral I II represents a canvas upper portion which covers the left side front of a garment set on the straight. Numeral II represents a similar piece of canvas material for the upper shoulder portion set on the bias and joined to material I 0 by stitching I2 along a wide arc. I have provided an extension of piece II terminating in a corner I4 which is approximately four inches from the normal shoulderline I3 to the extreme end of the point. The normal shoulder line is represented. by a dot and dash line I3. This extension I4 falls over and to the rear of the shoulder and beyond it to form a tapered termination preventing a ridge or lump appearin at the rear of the shoulder at any time.

A bottom portion I 5 covering the shoulder and the chest portion approximately to the waistline and preferably made of canvas or felt acts as an inner lining for the outer lining.

Directly beneath the outer layer or outer material I0 I provide a liner of hair-cloth material I8 which is slightly less in area than the underneath liner I5. The hair-cloth piece I6 is set on the straight and is stitched along the stitch-line I2. Another piece of hair-cloth I'I beneath piece II is set on the bias and is also stitched along line I2 and is slightly less in area than the shoulder piece II and lies directly beneath the said shoulder piece II. Between the hair-cloth piece I1 and the lower shoulder piece I5, several layers of flannel or felt I8 are placed, the bottom one being the largest and the upper ones graduated smaller in area than the previous one running from the bottom toward the top, such graduations appear in a substantially triangular form with the base of the triangle at the outer shoulder line 20 and tapering toward the neck portion as shown in Figures 1 and 2. In this manner the end of the shoulder is built higher while the portion leading toward the neck gradually recedes in height thus building up the shoulders and creating more of a straight line from the edge of the shoulder to the neck portion.

When the materials I I, I I, I8 and I5 have been placed in proper position, such materials are laid over an arcuate form which has the curvature of obvious that the overlapping filler pieces may be.

substituted with other materials of the same or similar characteristics and built'up to any desired height without departing from the general spirit of the invention.

I claim:

1. A foundation front for garments comprising an outer material consisting of a front piece set on the straight and a shoulder piece set on the bias; said front piece and shoulder piece joined together by stitching, a hair-cloth liner beneath a portion of said front piece and said shoulder piece, a series-of'graduated substantially triangulanfi-llermaterials with the bases of each ofsai'd triangular fillermaterials coinciding with the. outer end of said shoulder piece, said triangular filler materials beneath said hair-cloth liner with the'smallest of said filler materials at the upper portionand' graduated downwardly to the largest filler material, an extension beyond thenormal shoulder line extending over and to tlierear'of: the-shoulder'piece' forming a tapered termination, a lining material beneath said shoul de i piece andsaid front piece, said shoulder piece,

said: triangular filler materials and saidilining material stitched through their various layers around a curvedsurface simulating the normal shoulder curvature, whereby said shoulder piece and said. filler materials will retain the said 4 shoulder curvature preventing shifting of the said materials beneath said shoulder piece.

2. A foundation front for garments having a front, shoulder and neck portions, said front portion set on the straight, and said shoulder portion set on the bias, said front and shoulder portions joined along a curved line to said front portion by stitching, a hair-clothzli-ner set on the bias beneath said :shoulder'portion and a part of said front portion, a liner for said shoulder portion and a portion of said front portion, an extension beyond the normal shoulder line extending over and tothe rear of the shoulder portion forming a tapered termination, filler pieces beneath said'shoulder portion and between said liner and saidhair-cloth liner, said filler pieces of substantially triangular shape and graduated from larger to smaller pieces from said liner to said hair-cloth liner, the bases of each of said triangular filler piecessetupon theouter end of said shoulder portion, said filler" pieces tapering toward the neck portion, said-shoulder portion, saidhair-cloth liner, said'filler pieces and said liner stitched together arounda curved-sur face simulating a normal shoulder curvature, whereby a built-up shoulder is created giving a substantially straight line from said .outer edge of said shoulder portion towards said neck portion" and preventing said filler pieces-from shift'-' ing their position. I a a HAGOP'J'. YAGHUBIAN;

REFERENCES 1 CITED The following references are of record'in the file of this patent;

UNITED STATESwPATEN-TS" Number Name Date 615,500 Schweichler Dec.- 6; 1898' 

